How do you start your day?

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Imagine my surprise and amazement to see a few of my photos feature in this Saturdays Telegraph magazine. The article is about the new multivitamin and multibiotic powder that the wonderful ‘Zita West’ and ‘Mybaba’ have launched. The photos depict cunning ways to incorporate the vitamins into breakfast; hence a raspberry and almond milk smoothie with said powder on top and the infamous granola pot with again, a healthy scattering of said vitamins! This is for children only, and my goodness it’s a good idea when back to school invariably means back to classrooms with one to many germs and other nasties lurking. Unsurprisingly, the ‘pink one’ thought the magic powder ‘quite yummy’ and happily lapped it up, the ‘blue one’ was more reserved and needed it disguised. The powder itself tastes good but it does have that distinctive ‘vitamin’ smell that just needs a little cunning to mask.

Breakfast has been quite a feature in the last week. One way and another I managed to make what felt like an industrial quantity of pots destined to various clients. I like pots, they work well and have a real novelty factor to them. I mean I wouldn’t make them everyday but for special occasions they certainly hit the spot. I am also notorious for getting bored with breakfast. Don’t get me wrong, it’s not something I want to skip but boy it is something I want to vary. Much as I love granola, I don’t want it religiously. Soaked oats are catching on, I’ve always loved bircher muesli,  chia – treated well can be delicious, seasonal fruit compotes with yogurt – big thumbs up from me and the pink one,  and porridge made with almond milk, scattered liberally with blackberries is also up there. In the liquid format I am a keen fan of ‘juicing’, which sounds like it should be some kind of sport, on occasion it feels like it, as I ram another fistful of carrots through the machine, and also one particular smoothie, made of banana, oat, chia, dates and almond milk has recently won my heart. This all sounds overwhelmingly healthy, which I guess it is but roll on saturday morning and the bacon’s out, mushrooms and eggs in spades.

Chia Pots with Almond Milk, Mango and Passion Fruit

60g chia seeds

300ml almond milk (Rude Health makes a delicious milk)

A drop of vanilla essence

1 passion fruit

Half a mango

Soak the chia seeds in the almond milk and vanilla, overnight in the fridge. The chia will expand, if it’s very stiff in the morning, loosen with more almond milk. Spoon into jam jars. Top with chopped up mango and passion fruit.

 

Granola with Yogurt and Seasonal Fruit Compote 

Fruit Compote

Make the most of seasonal fruit with handpicked blackberries, damsons and plums. Gently put a combination of the fruit or just one of the fruit, in a pan with a slug of maple syrup. Bring up to simmer and cook gently for 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and pass through a sieve to remove stones (if using damsons and plums)! Fruit compote can be frozen or kept in the fridge for up to 4 days.

 

Raspberry and Almond Milk Smoothie with ‘Mybaba’ multivitamin and multibiotic powder ( makes 1 childsize serving)

150ml of almond milk (or normal milk)

2 organic strawberries

5 organic raspberries

2 grams vitamin powder

Whizz the whole lot up and hey presto a delicious smoothie. If the fruit isn’t sweet enough add a little honey or maple syrup.

Zita West/ Mybaba – multivitamin and probiotic berry flavoured powder can be bought from mybaba.com and zitawest.com

 

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A summer of food, food, food…..

Ouch – it’s been a long old time since I have written anything here. Neglected – yes – that is for sure, ‘lardersaga’ has been rather dormant, my apologies. Somehow the summer whizzed by and already we are half way through September. Appetites have changed and comfort food is creeping onto the menu. Long gone are the hazy days of summer and autumn is most certainly here. Conkers, falling leaves, hearty soups and much more. My kitchen has created the whole spectrum from venison hotpots to autumn salads, all sorts works at this time of year it just depends what each day throws at us – rain, sun, wind! To get the ball rolling again, I am harking back to one of my favorite recipes that I cooked in a rather large quantity this summer; a classic, gluten-free (don’t look at the butter and sugar content !) ‘Lemon Polenta Cake’, from the time-honored bible of a recipe book, ‘The River Cafe’.

I don’t have a sweet tooth – at least not in the way the pink one does. However, confronted with a slice of ‘Lemon Polenta Cake’ I find it near impossible to resist its buttery crumb and lemony zing. It’s easy to make, versatile, can be used for tea or pudding and keeps for several days. Serve with lashings of creme fraiche, greek yogurt or mascarpone and a few seasonal berries, it is ‘YUMMY’, in the words of my daughter. Ideal for those of us who are intolerant of gluten but fancy an indulgent, slightly naughty cake!

The River Cafe’s Lemon Polenta Cake

250g butter

250g caster sugar

Grated zest of 2 organic lemons

250g ground almonds

1tsp vanilla extract

3 organic eggs, beaten

juice of 1 lemon

125g polenta

1 tsp baking powder

pinch of salt

Heat the oven to 160c/ gas 5

Butter and line a 24cm loose bottomed cake tin.

Beat the butter, sugar, lemon zest and salt until white and fluffy.

Stir in the almonds and vanilla and now add the beaten eggs, a little at a time, beating well between each addition.

Fold in the polenta, lemon juice and baking powder.

Spoon the cake mix into the tin and bake for between 40 and 50 minutes till the sides of the cake have shrunk back and the top is golden.

Lemon sugar syrup

Juice of 1 lemon

75 gm caster sugar

Pop the juice and sugar in a saucepan and heat gently till the sugar dissolves completely.

Glaze the cake with a lemony / sugar syrup using a pastry brush.

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This shot was taken at the festival I cooked at in May. We made the cake for 220 people and it was sublime. We doubled the recipe and cooked the cakes in large rectangle baking tins. Every batch was very slightly different, some slightly more gooey, buttery, almost caramel like  – not one was the same but all were delicious.

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Festival food in France

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Every two years since 2003 I have travelled out to a otherworldly, fairytale Chateau in south-west France to cook and cater for a unique and exquisite music festival. I take a wonderful team of cooks and together we spend 5 days in the medieval kitchen, chopping, stirring, cooking, baking, peeling, rolling preparing food for the Queille Festival. It is the most extraordinary 5 days, exhilarating, inspirational, gruelling but most importantly fun. The quantities are huge, at times overwhelming. The atmosphere, magical and the teamwork phenomenal. So many people come to help us in the kitchen that this year I lost count, new faces came in each day; fabulous, gorgeous bright young things, seemingly invincible, riding the crest of innocent youth. We laughed a lot, one mans laugh I would love to bottle, it was hilarious in itself, contagious and uplifting . Music played, jokes shared while all the time we cooked our hearts out.

The first ‘festival food’ actually does not get served till the friday evening. So the initial few days are spent putting together substantial canapes for that evening and preparing for the vast numbers that come thereafter. This year we kept very much to an Italian style, the inspiration after all was  ‘Il Gattopardo’, a novel by Giuseppe Tomasi di Lampedusa, and this would be the ‘theme’ for the last night in terms of dressing up, music and food. Menu ideas for friday night were not hard to come by, after all the Italians do ‘cicchetti’ extremely well, the Venetian cuisine is famous for it. On reflection, ‘canapes’ is maybe a little too glamorous a word, these were not delicate pretty works of art, what we created was much more hearty, good, wholesome peasant food! We served everything from arrancini (deep-fried risotto balls) to individual butternut squash risotto, homemade pizza, tortellini skewers, polenta with melted gorgonzola, spicy pork and fennel seed meatballs, masses of Italian inspired croutes with toppings such as white bean puree, fennel and spicy salami, to shots of roasted red pepper and tomato soup with basil oil. My Italian friends would have been proud!

As the weekend unravels so does the pressure on us. The numbers peak at around 220 and we loosely base our catering calculations on that figure. Saturday has always been a BBQ and this year we stuck again to the Italian theme adding a very popular Macaroni cheese which was virtually inhaled. Sunday lunch was Asian inspired; we ended up popping the marinated salmon on the BBQ (faulty, dodgy French hire ovens refused to work) with stunning results, paired with huge salads and the gratefully received, addition of sunshine, it was my favourite meal.

Sunday night is a 3 course sit down dinner in the big top (see instagram shot). This is the grande finale for us and really the most challenging and difficult of all the meals we cater for. As mentioned earlier the theme for this year was ‘The Leopard’, which has the most bewitching, seductive, mouth-watering passages of banqueting I think I have ever read about. The food becomes so visual you can almost taste it. Antonio Carluccio made a wopping 90 minute documentary about it, reincarnating the mystical dishes and portraying them in the context of the time. The novel is exquisite, and the food described unforgettably beautiful, but the food is part of an era that has long since vanished. Take for example the exquisite ‘Macaroni Pie’. This astounding creation is made up of a rich pastry encasing macaroni, ‘un-born hen’s eggs’ (I kid you not), truffles, porcini, stock, chicken livers and a number of other improbable ingredients. Decadent, rich, astonishing, yet not something I thought would necessarily pander to our generations tastes. After much deliberation we sacrificed the macaroni pie, the rum jelly, the cassata and zuppa di fave and opted for a more modern-day Sicilian menu. A starter of caponata with brushetta, mozzarella and rocket,  followed by Sicilian beef stew with capers, olives and rosemary, followed by Amaretti stuffed peaches. It was a shame, yet a decision we did not live to regret. ‘Macaroni Pie’ for 2oo really was pretty unfeasible.

The highlight for me was without question the Italian acrobats. Straight from the circus they performed death-defying stunts, it was all beautifully, ‘olde woldy’, no safety nets, no harness’, nothing, and much more exciting as a result. In terms of the food all of it was delicious, something about using produce that has not traveled hundreds of miles helps; the peaches were from Spain, strawberries from France. A few items stick in my mind, the ‘nectarine, fine bean and fennel salad’ was an epic masterpiece of summer lightness, all clean, crunchy and biting with flavour. The ‘lemon polenta cake’, which is a River Cafe recipe, was a super choice of pudding for 220 people on BBQ night, and just a recipe that will never be bettered, oh and it’s gluten free! And finally the ‘Amaretti stuffed peaches’ were regal naughtiness of the highest degree! So on that note I am going to leave you with the easiest and simplest of salads, the nectarine number! Perfect for summer, perfect for now and perfectly easy.

Nectarine, Fine Bean, Fennel Salad with Lime and Ginger Dressing (Serves 4 )

250 gms fine green beans topped and tailed and blanched very quickly – do not overcook

4 just ripe nectarines, segmented carefully into 8’s

1 large fennel bulb, julienned on a microplane

1 handful of fresh mint leaves lightly torn

Dressing:

1 1/2 tbsp rice wine vinegar

4 tablespoons ground nut oil

1 globe of preserved ginger or 1cm of freshly grated ginger

2 tbsp maple syrup 1 red chilli finely diced

1. To make the salad toss together the nectarines, fine beans, mint and fennel.

2. Make the dressing by shaking everything together really well in a jam jar. Dress the salad and serve immediately.

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Cinderella Party

4th party crete 031This year it was Cinderella, last year it was the Sleeping Beauty, it’s quite clear that Princess parties are rather popular with the ‘Pink’ one. This was a family production with everyone hands on helping. It always surprises me how much needs to be done; added to which Mr.P never likes things done by halves and whether you are going to be 4 or 40, a whole lot of effort goes in to create an unforgetable day for the birthday girl or boy. It’s small wonder the ‘blue’ one has started his countdown already and he’s a good six months off! So once again the stage was set down at Blackberry Farm, unbelievably the Gods smiled on us and the sun shone. The ‘Raj’ tent was erected for the grand performance of ‘Cinderella’, the palace ballroom was made up and the banquet took place in the courtyard archway, festooned with billowing long white muslin drapes and masses of ludicrous pink pom pom balls.

‘Sharkey and George’ were hauled in last minute, as in a moment of clarity I feared that entertaining 20 small princess’s and a number of prince’s could be well beyond my entertaining skills. In hindsight, Mr.P did a marvelous job of directing ‘Cinderella’ and I’m pretty sure we may be able to manage flying solo next year, who knows what the production will be then? I guess Rapunzel’s in the running, or possibly Snow White. Anyhow, the remarkable thing was, the little people really did rather enjoy our Blackberry Farm Cinderella, it is rather a one man (girl ) show, but after all it was the pink ones birthday, so Cinderella she was.  There was some genius casting of the ‘ugly sisters’ and some rather interesting horses that drew the carriage, the ‘blue’ one was the Prince and curiously, was pretty charming.

Catering for the ‘pink’ ones parties is always a treat. It’s fairy tale cooking with lots of pink, sweets and pretty flowers. A request for macaroons had been acknowledged, and then it was just all the old favorites, raspberry laced meringues, pink swirly fairy wand biscuits, cupcakes adorned with butter icing and crazy flowers and the cake itself, a ‘Princess Castle’. My cake making skills are really extremely basic, so like every year before I pitched for something relatively simple that just had to be iced to the nines. Inspiration was provided from some wonderful children’s cake book (sorry I forget which one) and I adapted it to what was practical and what was going to work for me. It was quite simply 2 large sponge cakes each sandwiched together in the old way, raspberry jam and butter icing, and then placed gently on top of each other with some round, firm card supporting the top cake, balanced on lolly pop sticks stuck in the bottom cake. The cakes were heavily iced with vanilla butter icing and decorated with mini marshmallows for battlements and little sugar flowers bought very inexpensively from Waitrose. The towers were made by sandwiching ginger nut biscuits together with butter icing and  the walls of the towers, was rolled out fondant icing. Turrets, were ice cream cones dipped in icing and then coated with hundreds and thousands and buttons. I cut out windows and doors from the left over fondant and made flags with some spare straws and wrapping paper. Naturally I was swearing by the time I finished but all in all it did not take that long. Trust me, I’ll never go into cake decorating though, it’s a real test of patience!

 

 

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The best ‘Crab Cakes’ ever…

April 2015 769If there is one recipe that I have been asked for over and over again in the last six months it has to be this. Crab cakes are very close to my heart and I have for years endeavoured to come up with a recipe that leaves the crab as ‘king’ so to speak. In my experience, as soon as one starts mixing anything with the delicate flesh, sadly the crab always seems to pale into insignificance. Tragic, given how expensive good crab can be. One pot – a rather miserly 250gms of fresh picked (unpasteurized) white crab meat from our fine shores, costs around £8 – £9 in London. Not cheap, I agree, but worth every penny when you make it into crab cakes!

The ‘pink’ and ‘blue’ have been gripped by crabs for sometime. Nostalgic, happy days spent on the Isle of Wight with lines dangling down into the unknown has only fueled their appetite for the sport and indeed the food that is intrinsically connected with this foraging frolic (at least in their minds it is – never let the truth get in the way of a good story, they don’t need to know that wee Bembridge crabs cannot be eaten). Even Mr.P has fond memories of ‘crabbing’ and nanny magically transforming the wee pincer clad crustaceans into crab paste on toast for high tea! I haven’t gone that far but both pink and blue have a somewhat enthusiastic appetite for trying the unknown. Squid and prawns have become a luxury for high days and holidays and are adored by both and said crab has had a lot of attention recently. I haven’t actually given it to them in any quantity as selfishly it’s a pretty expensive taste to develop at 3 and 5, they have had the odd morsel, but to date the crab cakes are for adults only. I don’t think I’ll get away with it for much longer! There’s not much not to like about these crab cakes, simply bound together with mayonnaise, a handful of coriander, some finely diced red chilli and rolled in panko and polenta crumbs they are as light as can be and taste simply and importantly of crab!

April 2015 767Crab Rules:

Use fresh white, unpasteurized, hand-picked crab meat. I buy mine from ‘The Chelsea Fishmonger’ on Chelsea Green, 250gms  costs £9.95. You can order on 02075899432.

Crab Cakes

250gms white crab meat

1 red chilli finely diced

4 tablespoons of finely chopped fresh coriander

mayonnaise to bind – about 2 to 3 tablespoons

 100 gm Panko and polenta breadcrumb mix

1. Mix the white crab meat with the coriander and chilli and bind together with the mayonnaise and a good grind of black pepper.

2. Shape into 4 crab cakes and gently place in the breadcrumb and polenta mix making sure all the sides of the cake are covered.  Place in the fridge to firm up for at least 30 minutes.

3. Place a splash of grapeseed oil or other non flavoured oil in a frying pan and gently cook on both sides till golden and heated completely through. Eat immediately with oriental slaw and a homemade sweet chilli jam.

250gms makes 4 adult size crab cakes. These crab cakes cannot be frozen and should be eaten on the day of making.

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Making macaroons easy

March 2015 047‘Macaroons made easy’, is that a joke I hear you say ? Actually not, after years of making macaroons, some that were passable and some that were a damn right failure, I have finally been introduced to a completely foolproof recipe. It has taken a couple of attempts to perfect it, but at least I know now where I have gone wrong previously, and hopefully how not to make the same mistakes again. Once mastered, if I can call it that, these little sandwiches of air and sweetness are remarkably easy to make and unbelievably cheap, unlike their stunning cousins from Lauduree. They make a brilliant present and needless to say the ‘little people’ inhale them. The pink one has already put in her order for her party! Being rather a novice, I have only really done a couple of flavours, once you get the taste for it I guess you can embark on a huge journey of discovery, but for now, plain old vanilla and chocolate will suffice.

Macaroons

Makes at least 20

70g egg whites (about 2 eggs but do weigh them) at room temperature

35g caster sugar

115g icing cugar

60g ground almonds

Food coloring

There are a few rules with macaroons. Follow them and they should work. Deviate, and they won’t.

Set a fan oven on to 125c. Line 2 baking sheets with baking paper.

1. Weigh out the egg whites and the caster sugar and pop in a Kenwood with your chosen food coloring, I use ‘Sugarflair Colours’, to beat on full speed for 10 minutes.

2. While the egg whites are being beaten furiously, sieve together the ground almonds and icing sugar. Once will do but twice is even better.

3. Stop the beaters after 10 minutes and fold in the almond-icing sugar mix into the meringue. You will need to make about 50 folds. Count as you fold, you do not want your mix to be undermixed.

The first photo shows the almonds and sugar just beginning to be folded in, the photo below shows what the mix should look like after 50 folds. The top left is the macaroons pre-cooking and the shot below is having just been removed from the oven.

 4. Now you need to pipe the macaroons onto the baking sheets. Place a piping bag over a small jug and using a spatula transfer the macaroon mix into the piping bag. Pipe onto the trays  around ’10p/50p’ sized macaroons. I pipe down so the mix spreads from the middle as such, so they are probably 3/4mm in depth. Evenly pipe them out.

5. Now the important bit. The trays need to be bashed 3 times on a table to knock out the remaining air. Lift them to 15 cm above a table and drop 3 times, turn the tray completely around and do the same thing again.

6. Now they are ready to go in the oven. Place in the oven and cook for 20 minutes.

7. Remove and leave to cool. They should have developed little feet where they have risen very slightly.

8. Fill with buttercream or ganache depending on what you fancy.

 I use a classic buttercream filling, enriched with a tablespoon of cream cheese. In the pink ones I recently gave to Mummy I added a wee bit of lemon curd, quite delicious!

March 2015 044Chocolate Macaroons

If you want to make chocolate macaroons use 1oog of icing sugar and 15g of cocoa powder. Chocolate macaroons should be filled with a chocolate ganache.

Happy macaroon making and roll on the Easter holidays, end of term fever around here!

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Spring has sprung

IMG_1359Four days of glorious sunshine and the ‘pink one’ has launched into her campaign to wear summer dresses. Granted, it’s sunny, warm is more debatable! I’m certainly not knocking these glorious blue skies, far from it, merely acknowledging how fast one can move from the dark days of winter to the promise of spring and then summer. Walking around the farm last weekend I spent some time admiring our steadily growing flock of Jacob sheep. What started off as two lovely ladies from the borders has grown to something more like 14, with the majority of those about to lamb. ‘Spring lambs’, how utterly divine; I’ll have money on it that come Easter the flock will have increased and we’ll have a field of bouncing lambs.

In order to eat lamb at Easter or ‘Spring Lamb’ as it is so umimaginatively called, it has to have been born about as far away from Spring as is feasibly possible, Christmas at the latest but more likely late Autumn. Our lambs that are going to be born in the next few weeks are in my view the true spring lambs. Born in March, at a time of year that is less hostile and unfriendly than the depths of winter, our sheep don’t even come inside to give birth. It’s all rather ‘do it yourself’, and takes place out in the field. All things being equal, and assuming there are no complications, the little darlings can be seen shakily walking around on the new spring grass within minutes of being born. Mr. Fox, that crafty rascal, often pinches one, which is very irritating, but otherwise our lambs soon learn how to fend for themselves and how to avoid ‘Toffee’ the fat Shetland and her rather wild kicking frenzies! Fed on Spring grass and their mother’s milk, fattened up on the richness of summer grass with the sun on their backs and then it’s curtains in the autumn, at least that’s what happens to the boys, the lucky girls are kept on to grow the flock. That’s nature, or so I am led to believe! All pretty logical – which is why I think lamb tastes much more interesting in the autumn than now. Lamb that is sold as ‘spring lamb’ is unlikely to have had any grass, it will have been entirely milk-fed and probably been indoors most of its’ life – which in itself can produce a delicious flavor but one that is much more delicate than lamb that has a combination of grass and milk. At the end of the day for a hobby sheep farmer such as myself, it has just baffled me for years all the hype over spring lamb when the maths simply does not add up. The reality is there are 2 different kinds of lamb, one that is born in the late autumn and early winter months that is predominantly milk-fed and destined for the Spring market, and one that is born in the spring months that has a mix of milk and grass and enters the market, somewhat different in flavour – arguably more intense, in the late summer early autumn. Bingo – spring lamb explained – (kind of)!

IMG_1356Will we be eating lamb at Easter? Well of course, I mean who in their right mind wouldn’t? Yet, it will be last years lamb, plucked from the freezer I hasten to add! We are now becoming pretty long on lamb but are a long way from tired of it. A recent addition to our lamb repertoire of recipes has a middle eastern flavour, it requires time and hence a little planning but you will be rewarded.  Hear me out; smothered in harrissa paste and slow roasting a shoulder for 5-8 hours in the oven creates the most wonderfully rich, aromatic and tender meat. I have to admit I’m quite addicted. Accompanied with the all important tahini yogurt and muhamra its a combination that is hard to resist. Now don’t get me wrong, this is not Easter Sunday fare, we tend to tow the party line where important, but it is refreshingly different and a real wind of change from the norm. One of the best things about it is the all important ‘leftovers’. Every lunch this week I have been feasting on the various components that go with said lamb but in a salad style combination. ‘Muhamra’ is the true jewel in the crown. Unlike anything I have ever eaten before I found a recipe in my favorite book ‘Honey & Co’ – it is quite delicious and versatile in the extreme. It really can be paired with anything. Please try it as it will bring a smile to your face. Happy days, spring is here!

Harrissa  Slow Roasted Shoulder of Lamb

1 jar of Belazu Rose Harrissa Paste

1 shoulder of lamb

Set the oven to 150 and place the lamb in a roasting tray lined with foil. Cover/ smother the lamb shoulder with the harissa paste – depending on the size of the lamb shoulder you may use the whole jar – or possibly only half. Cover tightly with foil and put in the oven to slow roast for between 5-6 hours. After this time the lamb should just fall away from the bone when you pop a knife in. It should not to be carved but more pulled apart. Serve warm.

Muhamra (from Honey & Co)

1 red pepper 180g

1 large plum tomato 120g

1 red onion 100g

1 head of garlic unpeeled

1 chilli red

1 tbsp + 1 tbsp olive oil

1/2 tsp salt

1/4 freshly ground black pepper

60g walnuts, roasted

3 tbsp pomegranate molasses

1/2tsp smoky paprika

Remove the seeds from the pepper and cut into chunks, cut the tomato into chunks, cut the onion into wedges and cut the head of garlic straight thorugh the middle.

Place the pepper, garlic, tomato, onion and whole chilli in a roasting tin with the  1 tsp  of olive oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper.

Roast in the oven until carmelised around the edges, about 30 minutes. REmove from the oven and let cool.

Squeeze out the soft flesh of the garlic, and discard the skins, remove the top stem of the chilli. Mix all the vegetables, all the walnuts, the pomegranate molasses, paprika and last spoon of oilve oil and now place in a magimix and blend to a puree, not completely smooth but not too chunky. More like a pesto consistency. Serve as needed. This will keep in the fridge for up to a week.

Salads of the week:

Roasted butternut, beetroot, rocket, tahini yogurt, homemade pesto and Muhamra

Herbed bulghar wheat, avocado, beetroot, tahini yogurt and Muhamra

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