A few of my favourite things…

A few of my favourite things, burratta, bottarga, Sardinian ham, Volpaia vinegar and Capezzana olive oil – and these are just a few. We love Italian food and wine, and if you haven’t been already you should try to make a visit to ‘Olivino’ – the most wonderful supplier of such treats! With the prospect of a bank holiday weekend looming what better excuse to stock up.

My shopping list :
Olivino’s Sardinian ham – quite delicious – stop being pretentious about the stuff from Parma – this is different but equally good if not better in my eyes, and importantly – if you are a careful caretaker of the family purse – extremely good value. The fennel salami is also sublime.
Burratta – yuumm – I don’t imagine this is too good for your heart but it is heaven – basically a cream injected mozzarella – you will never look back! Serve with rocket, vine cherry tomatoes and basil.
Bottarga – is smoked cods’ roe – shave into pasta with butter -it makes the most exquisite typically Sardinian dish.
Volpaia vinegar – my larder always has their red and white variety and Mauros’ own recommendation ‘Oro di Modena’ which is like a white balsamic.

The shop has a superb Italian wine selection, wonderful Sardinian cheeses, Olivinsarde – is a really punchy blue, and for those who don’t want to cook, ready made lasagne and numerous other edible delights.

And now for something completely different – sausage rolls! Hardly glamorous, and a far cry from the simplicity of Italian food. I wouldn’t lie, this is messy play at its height – but the outcome is well worth it. No doubt you will read this and think ‘nice idea, but frankly will stick to the nasty shop bought, newly taxed equivalent but without the mess’ – yet for those who have the energy and desire, these are perfect Blighty picnic fare. My husband, a hard and fast Italophile, has even been known to say he married me for my sausage rolls – not entirely sure what this says about the rest of my cooking repertoire. Less said!

Sausage Rolls with leek, apple, sage and chilli
1 roll of pre-rolled puff pastry
500g of good quality sausage meat
1 leek – finely diced
1 apple – finely diced (skin can be left on)
1 good pinch of red chilli flakes
1 tablespoon of chopped fresh sage
Egg wash
A few fennel and poppy seeds

1. Put the leek, apple and chilli in a saucepan and cook off in a little olive oil until softened and slightly caramelised.
2. Add the above concoction into the sausage meat and mix thoroughly together with a good grind of black pepper and pinch of Maldon salt.
3. Lay out the puff pastry and make a sausage shape with the mixture, pull the pastry over tightly using egg wash to seal the seam, fork the edges and brush the top with more egg wash – scatter with poppy seeds, sesame seeds and /or a few fennel seeds. Cut into desired size.
4. Cook in a pre-heated oven at 180 for about 20 minutes or until golden on top and the pastry has all been cooked.

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Roll on English asparagus, summer is on the way (we hope)

I don’t think I ever tried asparagus until I was nestled far south in New Zealand at the age of 18. Since then I have made up for lost time and whenever the English asparagus season starts I buy vast quantities and concoct endless dishes. Three years ago we planted an asparagus bed and each year I sit on the sidelines watching the fronds grow knowing I can’t pick them until at the earliest next year. It really is a test of patience and love. This year in those bright, gloriously sunny and warm days at the end of March (bit of a distant memory) everything started getting rather excited and asparagus tips started showing through, but since the deluge of rain and actually rather cold weather, those brave spears have withered and I am concerned now that the asparagus has got shy. Luckily for us we have a wonderful farm shop close by and this weekend I succumbed to buying our first bunch of English asparagus – at practically .70p a spear I thought them pretty steep – but I guess that is the price of greed! It is after all still quite early for English asparagus, I just can’t wait any longer!

A few little tricks……….

One cunning way of making asparagus stretch a little is cutting the tender fronds in half after cooking. This sounds a little tight but actually I rather love the color contrast between the tender white stems and shocking green. I also shave the stems with a vegetable peeler taking off the courser edges.

In terms of cooking I steam it, chargrill it, roast it and even blanche it. I don’t think there is any right or wrong the key thing is just not to overcook it. Retaining some bite is vital.

As to what to eat it with or how to serve it – well the list is endless, melted butter, hollandaise, olive oil,  I could rattle on for pages. We had a flounced up salad with extra padding of pancetta, a poached duck egg, broad beans, fine beans and some parmesan shavings. Perfect sunday dinner, but actually perfect week day dinner – really easy to prepare, really good for you, and practically the only vegetable that contains folic acid – very useful if you are pregnant!

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‘Jacob sheep’, the gift that keeps on giving!

ImageIt is not the obvious wedding present of choice but a very kind cousin bestowed on us two of the most charming Jacob sheep back in 2009. With a small amount of organisation, a willing ram is brought in (it was Hercules this year) and 4 months later – hey presto – the lambs appear. A total genius present – the lambs are delicious, the sweetest, prettiest little things to see bouncing round the field, the 2 original ewes, known as ‘Thelma and Louise’ are completely wild, always on the run, but such brilliant mummies – they lamb themselves and are incredibly low maintenance. Needless to say the crueler side of nature does kick in and the little boys end up in our freezer the girls are kept on for breeding. Our flock is growing and this year we have 6 lambs – 3 pink and 3 blue !

We are now in the happy situation that we very rarely ever buy in lamb. Over the last year I have come up with a number of ways of using the less trendy cuts, so nothing ever gets wasted. One of my favorite recipes is slow roasting a shoulder to the point that the meat seductively just falls off the bone – it is melt in the mouth and even better with this anchovy, caper and parsley marinade, strangely the perfect marriage.

Slow Roast Shoulder of Lamb with Anchovy and Parsley Marinade served with fine beans and slow roasted saffron tomatoes

2 tablespoons of really good quality salted anchovies

1 tablespoon of capers

1 handful of parsley

2 garlic cloves

A good slug of olive oil

1 shoulder of lamb

400gms of fine green beans

8 plum vine tomatoes

1 teaspoon of Maldon salt, 1 teaspoon of sugar a few strands of saffron, a good grind of black pepper – mixed together

  1. Take the lamb out of the fridge and let it come up to room temperature for at least 2 hours before putting it in the oven.
  2. Set the oven at 120c and prepare the tomatoes – slice in half and scatter with the sugar,saffron and salt mix – place in the oven for 1 hour, or until shrunken back, remove and set aside.
  3. Put the anchovies, capers, parsley, garlic and olive oil in a container and blitz with a hand blender, make incisions over the lamb like a chequerboard through the fat and spread the marinade over – leave to seep in for at least 1 hour.
  4. Place the lamb in a roasting tin and put in a low oven 140 for at least 4 hours – wrap in foil tightly. I then leave it to sit for 30 minutes.
  5. Mean while top and tail the beans and blanche.
  6. Layer  the beans up in a bowl with the saffron roasted tomatoes and drizzle with olive oil and serve alongside the slow roasted shoulder of lamb.

Serves 4 -6

Image

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Rain, rain go away…..

anyone else feeling that the hosepipe ban is a bit of a mockery as the rain lashes down? Puddle jumping, mud pies and very wet boots are all getting a little tedious even for the children. That said the garden must be thankful, though the only thing growing in any real abundance is the rhubarb. Pink, pretty, heavenly in smell, I love it, but I have to admit am always slightly challenged trying to find a good use for it. Cooked gently with vanilla, orange and sugar it is divine on yogurt and makes a perfect partner with apple or pear in crumbles, then I start to falter, what next, aha a cake. Does anyone ever need an excuse for a cake – what more than a very wet day and lots of rhubarb. This is a crumb cake, rich and buttery, easy to make, easier to eat and very satisfying on a rain drenched, rhubarb abundant April day!

Rhubarb Polenta Cake

400g rhubarb

300g of golden caster sugar

125g of soft butter

100 g of polenta

50 g of ground almonds

2 eggs

1 teaspoon of vanilla extract

200g of greek yogurt or natural yogurt

1 teaspoon of bicarbonate of soda

pinch of salt

150g of plain flour

Preheat the oven to 180 and line 2 loaf tins or one round 24cm tin

Wash and trim the rhubarb and cut into 1cm slices and toss with 4 tablespoons of the sugar and vanilla essence.

Put the soft butter and remaining sugar and pinch of salt in a bowl and beat hard until white and well creamed together (ideally with an electric beater). Mix in the the 2eggs slowly and then add one tablespoon of yogurt followed by one tablespoon of the remaining dry ingredients, until all the ingredients have been incorporated.

Stop the beating and then fold in the rhubarb, sugar and vanilla mix. Spoon into the tins (I used 2 loaf tins) and bake in the oven until golden on top and set. To test run a knife into the cake – it should come out completely clean, it should also feel like it has little bounce!

This cake could be served as a pudding ideally with rich Jersey cream, or creme fraiche, or eaten indulgently for tea – no excuse needed – it’s raining!

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Sweet Chilli and Tomato Jam

This is an old friend – one I am completely addicted to. Easy peasy to make, it can live in the larder or fridge for at least a month and is just the perfect addition to rev up a number of different dishes – try it with pan fried scallops, grilled chicken  or even a little manchego cheese. It has to be my first entry simply because it is top trumps in the larder!

SWEET CHILLI JAM

1 tin of chopped tomatoes (400gms)

2 red chillies, chopped roughly, with seeds left in

4 garlic cloves

A good chunk of fresh root ginger, peeled and chopped roughly

1 tablespoon of Thai fish sauce

300g of brown sugar, or granulated

100ml of red wine vinegar

4 lime leaves

1. Place all of the above ingredients (apart from the lime leaves) in a food processor and blend to a puree.

2. Pop the puree and lime leaves (still whole) into a saucepan and bring to the boil, stir every now and again.

3. Take off the boil and leave to slowly simmer for at least an hour, until the jam has thickened completely.

4. Pour into a sterilised jar and store in the fridge. It lasts for at least a month.

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Sugar and Spice ……

Once upon a time I owned and ran a little catering company. I adored it, it was my baby. However, 12 years on and I have 2 of the real things and common sense told me to move on and leave it in the hands of a new generation. Busy, tending the eating requirements of a  growing family, the creative cook in me just can’t resist sharing a few of my cooking adventures with a wider audience. I have no idea where this will lead or go, or if indeed I even have the time to write. If the last month is anything to go by – you may all go hungry. Fingers crossed I may be able to share a few tricks, recipes, recommendations and as the old saying goes, the proof will be in the pudding!

 

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